It’s just the beginning

Article also available in Italian  and in French 

 

My first week at Tailor Training Association in Paris has been completed after five days of hard work.

I’m not talking about a normal school, which everybody is used to, we didn’t have theoretical classes with books or explanation. As soon as we arrived, we suddenly had a first explanation with some professional and then we just started working: tailors present in the workshop gave a squared cut piece of fabric and they showed us how to sew some different stitch.

First two days have been dedicated to learn all main stitches, which are fundamentals to realise a suit; so I have sewed during two days realizing what that tailors a “tapis de points” (stitches rug) as in the picture

IMG_1601.jpg

Tapis de points

Counting from the perimeter to the centre of the rug it’s possible to distinguish 6 kind of stitches, which are classified as follow:

  • Stitch 1: Over sewing stitch, which allows to tie all edges finishing for more delicates fabric tending to fray with current utilization. It is sewed diagonally and it demands great regularity and work since it is mostly used to finish edges of high quality fabrics.
  • Stitch 2: Hook stitch, it is used to reproduce a template outlines on a fabric with double thick, in such way as to have completely identic left and right sides.
  • Stitch 3: Tacking stitch, which is the fundamental stitch of every tailor operation and is used to keep together two surfaces (fabric, lining…) before working it at sewing machine or working a more difficult stitch such as broguing.
  • Stitch 4: Broguing. This very particular stitch has two important roles: structure and
    capture-decran-2016-09-21-a-22-01-00

    Example of broguing on this pocket flap.

    decorate. In fact it is used to reinforce some specific zone of the suit like the flat of a pocket by decorating it with a nice visual effect.

  • Stitch 5: Cross stitch, very beautiful to see this stitch is fundamental to fix edges such as trousers folds.
  • Stitch 6 and 7: Ear stitch. Realized diagonally it is necessary to sew the canvas, which gives structure and shape to the jacket. Specifically the largest stitch is sewed to keep the fabric and canvas together, the tightest one allows to shape the lapel in order to give it the beautiful rounded movement.

Second week will be very interesting; indeed we have already started realizing some flapped pockets. It is a tough work! I’ll tell you about that soon, so you’ll know what to look at to judge a good pocket.

Bespoking you soon,

Giuseppe

 

 

7 thoughts on “It’s just the beginning

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